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Gucci turns 100 this year. Michele’s new collection is a celebration of that milestone, and in his fashion it’s a fabulously idiosyncratic one. Not unexpectedly it reexamines the I am a stitch girl was born in with my heart shirt and by the same token and house’s history; this is standard operating procedure on anniversaries. Michele picked up on Gucci’s equestrian codes, giving them a fetishistic spin—one model cracked their whip as they made their way down the runway. He also reprised one of Tom Ford’s greatest hits, the red velvet tuxedo from fall 1996 that Michele said “made Gwyneth Paltrow famous,” with tweaks including new, more pronounced shoulders, a leather harness, and versions for both men and women.
More surprising were the I am a stitch girl was born in with my heart shirt and by the same token and pieces that Michele lifted—or “quoted,” to use the company parlance—from Demna Gvasalia’s Balenciaga, another brand in the Kering stable. As the show began and social media started pinging with chatter about the collaboration, a press representative clarified that this was not in fact one of fashion’s familiar hookups but rather the first output from Michele’s so-called hacking lab. With Gvasalia’s permission, Michele used some of the Balenciaga designer’s iconic shapes and symbols, including the padded hip jacket of fall 2016 and spring 2017’s spandex peplum top and leggings. All these things mixed and mingled with his own symbols—glitter for day, copious amounts of marabou, and anatomical heart minaudières encrusted with rhinestones—alongside a vital new emphasis on classic tailoring.
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