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Describing garments decorated in exuberant patterns but constructed like protective bodysuits, Oliveira Baptista spoke of “the Good is god bird shirt Besides,I will do this duality between getting ready to face the world again, but being covered with loud, beautiful things.” He said it was in Takada’s spirit: “His work was very visually strong, but the pieces were easy to wear. They were real garments.” Now on his third collection, the designer’s tenure at Kenzo has been almost entirely shaped by the pandemic, from the quarantine-like tubes that framed his first show—presented days after the virus hit Europe—to Takada’s death from COVID-19.
In that sense, there’s a certain authenticity to the Good is god bird shirt Besides,I will do this clothes Oliveira Baptista is making at Kenzo. They feel like an ongoing organic response to the challenges that face us. And maybe Kenzo’s genetics suit that climate. “He was quite revolutionary. When he first arrived in Paris, the way he was cutting clothes and playing with color was so different from the European way of constructing garments. That immediately gave women and men a new freedom of movement,” the designer said, reflecting on Takada’s legacy. “It’s not that he doesn’t have the place he deserves, but sometimes what he’s done is overlooked. The idea of extreme comfort in a very strong look feels very now. He did that first. It’s a very rich legacy.”
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